Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (2024)

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RECIPE: Nan’s Fried Cauliflower from Nick Lograsso of Onesto People are also reading… 37 recipes from Ian Froeb's list of the top 100 restaurants in St. Louis RECIPE: Juniper Baked Pimento Cheese Dip RECIPE: J’s Pitaria House Salad RECIPE: Union Loafers Little Gem Salad RECIPE: Cleveland-Heath Pozole RECIPE: El Toluco Taqueria & Grocery Guacamole RECIPE: Sister Cities Wintry Sangria with Cranberries and Rosemary RECIPE: Seoul Taco Kimchi JJigae (Kimchi Stew) RECIPE: The Vine Mediterranean Cafe and Market Lentil Soup RECIPE: Annie Gunn's Caramelized Viking Village Sea Scallops with Apple-Pickled Jalapeño Relish RECIPE: Beast Craft BBQ Brussels Sprouts With Pork Belly RECIPE: Brasserie By Niche Pumpkin Soup RECIPE: Stellar Hog S’Mores Bread Pudding RECIPE: Byrd & Barrel Cauliflower Appetizer RECIPE: Stellar Hog Quinoa and Chickpea Veggie Burger RECIPE: Cleveland-Heath Broccolini RECIPE: Byrd & Barrel's Muffaletta Salad RECIPE: Cleveland-Heath Kale Salad RECIPE: Cleveland-Heath's Brussels Sprouts RECIPE: Farmhaus Ozark Forest Roasted Mushroom Salad RECIPE: Gioia's Deli Tortellini Salad RECIPE: Grace Meat + Three's Country Ham Deviled Eggs RECIPE: Katie's Pizza Cannellini Bean Dip RECIPE: Nudo House Shrimp Spring Rolls RECIPE: Southwest Diner Biscuits and Gravy RECIPE: Olio Roasted Beet Salad RECIPE: Olio's "Famous" Egg Salad RECIPE: Pastaria's Orange Salad RECIPE: Pastaria's Radish Bruschetta RECIPE: Peacemaker Clam Chowder RECIPE: Salt + Smoke White Cheddar Cracker Mac RECIPE: Southwest Diner's Buttermilk Cornmeal Pancakes RECIPE: The Crossing Roasted Beet Salad RECIPE: The Clover and the Bee Three Cheese Cauliflower Soup RECIPE: Edibles & Essentials Roasted Beet Salad RECIPE: Edibles and Essential’s Sweet Potato Curry with Polenta Cakes RECIPE: Mac’s Local Eats Naked Pig Sandwich RECIPE: Sister Cities Shrimp and Grits Watch Now: Related Video Prep School: How to make an asparagus soup Satisfy your cravings Related to this story 500+ restaurants where you can get takeout and delivery in the St. Louis area References

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  • By Pat EbySpecial to the Post-Dispatch
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Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (1)

By Pat EbySpecial to the Post-Dispatch

In challenging times favorite family recipes not only bring good tastes to our tables but also revive sweet memories in our hearts of people close to us. Nick Lograsso of Onesto Pizza & Trattoria knew his comfort food favorite was his Sicilian grandmother’s fried cauliflower, but he needed a family connection to get the details.

“I called my sister Johnna for the recipe,” he says. “She was the one who used to make it with our Nan — that’s what we called our grandmother. My brother Michael and I ate it, but we didn’t cook with Nan.

RECIPE: Nan’s Fried Cauliflower from Nick Lograsso of Onesto

Yield: 4 large servings or 8 appetizer servings

“Nan was old-school Sicilian, church every day at St. Joan of Arc, lighting candles and all. If I scraped my knee, she’d light a candle. She was always the grandma who said, no matter what, ‘You need to eat more’ and then she would feed us.

“When we got to be older and didn’t come around as much, she’d call and say ‘I made fried cauliflower. Who wants to come and get it?’ It was as much a way of getting to see us as giving us the treat.

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“Well, our brothers-sister joke was always, ‘Who’s going to go?’ We all wanted to get it because we knew, whoever went, half of that cauliflower would be gone by the time it got to the house.”

In her well-written recipe, Johnna confirmed her brother’s story. She wrote, “Make sure you are alone when you make this because they will be eaten before you ever get them on the dish!” Johnna doubles the recipe we’ve printed for her family when she makes it today. It scales perfectly.

Nan passed on her good cooking skills, concern for others and thoughtful kindnesses to Nick Lograsso, knowledge and traits that helped him build Onesto into a friendly neighborhood restaurant serving Italian specialties made from scratch, fresh each day.

During this pandemic, Onesto’s customers have given their support to the restaurant that became a neighborhood favorite since its opening in 2018 by ordering carryout now that indoor service is no longer an option.

“We are still offering our same Onesto quality. We continue to make our own sauces. Our pizza guy comes in every day to make fresh dough. We still hand toss each crust.

“Our menu has shortened, but we’re still making appetizers, pastas and entrees. None of our quality has suffered, but now our food comes in take-home boxes.”

On the sweet side, the tiramisu is a brisk seller, as is the restaurant’s No. 1 adult beverage. “Our sangria sales are off the charts now,” he says. “Check our Facebook page, Twitter and Instagram for our sangria offerings.” Lograsso makes the specialty sangrias himself each week, varying the flavors as the seasons change.

“Here at Onesto, myself and my business partner Terry Tousey are extremely humbled and thankful for the neighborhood, our local community, and customers for stepping up to take care of us as a small business. My staff is grateful, too. It means the world to us,” Lograsso says.

“We’ll be here opening the door when its safe, to welcome customers back to our patio and our restaurant, again.”

Onesto Pizza & Trattoria

5401 Finkman Street

314-802-8883; onestopizza.com

See recipes from the top 100 restaurants in St. Louis

37 recipes from Ian Froeb's list of the top 100 restaurants in St. Louis

RECIPE: Juniper Baked Pimento Cheese Dip

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (3)

Yield: 8 servings

1 red bell pepper

¼ pound yellow cheddar cheese

¼ pound white cheddar cheese

¼ cup southern-style mayonnaise

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ cup cream cheese (optional)

¾ teaspoon smoked paprika

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon hot sauce

1 tablespoon fermented pickle juice

Salt to taste

2 tablespoons cornbread crumbs

2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley

Notes: Keep the cheeses cold in the refrigerator until ready to grate them.

• Juniper uses Duke’s mayonnaise for this recipe, which has a distinctive flavor.

• Be sure to use smoked paprika for this dish.

• Juniper uses Crystal Hot Sauce as the hot sauce.

• While Juniper uses a flavorful garlicky juice from the pickles they make in house, any pickle juice will do.

• The optional ¼ cup of cream cheese adds an extra creaminess and keeps the dip from separating, but it is not used in the Juniper recipe.

• The dip is baked and served in cast iron at Juniper, which helps it retain heat. You may use individual 6- or 8-ounce ramekins for this appetizer. Adjust the timing of the bake accordingly.

• The bread Juniper uses with this dip is similar to a pita or to the Indian bread naan. Choose your favorite breads or crackers here.

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, or 325 degrees for glass pans.

2. Rinse, then roast the red pepper, using your favorite method — oven roasted, broiled, flame roasted or charred on the grill — until the skin is evenly blistered. Place roasted pepper in a paper bag and let rest 10 minutes.

3. Remove, then cut the pepper vertically down one side and open it flat. The stem and seeds should pull away easily. Wipe away any loose seeds with a paper towel. Turn the pepper skin side up and work the blistered skin away from the flesh. Cut the roasted pepper in a ¼-inch dice and set aside.

4. Grate the cold cheddar cheeses using the large holes on a box grater or a food processor fitted with a grating disc. Toss the cheeses together in a mixing bowl. Add the diced red peppers and fold into the cheese.

5. In a separate mixing bowl, blend the mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, smoked paprika and cayenne pepper. If using the optional cream cheese, add it in this step.

6. Stir the mix into the cheeses. Add hot sauce and pickle juice and stir to blend evenly.

7. Taste. Add salt if needed.

8. Transfer the mixed dip into a 1-½ quart baking dish. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove and top with cornbread crumbs. Return to the oven and bake an additional 5 to 7 minutes.

9. Remove to a wire rack to cool slightly.

10. Top with chopped parsley.

11. Serve with assorted pickles, breads or crackers.

Per serving: 198 calories; 18 fat; 8g saturated fat; 41mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 3g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; 1g fiber; 281mg sodium; 224mg calcium

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RECIPE: J’s Pitaria House Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (4)

Yield: 1 large serving (2 smaller servings)

1 medium, ripe Roma tomato

½ large red bell pepper

1/3 of a 10- or 12-inch English cucumber

½ small red onion, 2-inches or less in diameter

¼ cup feta crumbles

1/3 cup of a bunch fresh curly parsley

2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/6 of a large lemon, cut lengthwise into a wedge

Notes: This composed, layered salad shows best in a deep clear bowl as seen in the photos.

• It is large enough for two people as a side salad. It can be divided into two bowls easily.

• For the test, the red onion was a bit hot, so we soaked the cut cubes in ice water for 20 minutes to soften the flavor. We then carefully removed the pieces and blotted them dry with a clean dishtowel (or paper towel) before adding to the salad.

• If the lemon isn’t seedless, remove seeds or wrap each wedge in cheesecloth as the lemon is squeezed directly onto the salad.

1. Wash and core, then cut the tomato into 3/8-inch cubed pieces. Place in the bottom of the serving bowl.

2. Cut the bell pepper in half lengthwise, remove seeds and ribs, and then dice into ½-inch square pieces. Cover the chopped tomatoes with pepper pieces.

3. Cut the English cucumber into quarters and then into 3/8-inch pieces. Spread evenly over the peppers.

4. Cut the red onion into chunky pieces, about 3/8-inch. Layer on top of the cucumbers.

5. Scatter the feta cheese over all.

6. Trim the woody stems from the parsley bunch, then finely chop leaves and fine stems. Place a mound in the center of the salad.

7. Drizzle extra virgin olive oil over all.

8. Add the lemon wedge to the bowl and serve.

Per serving (1 large serving): 433 calories; 37g fat; 10g saturated fat; 33mg cholesterol; 9g protein; 22g carbohydrate; 13g sugar; 6g fiber; 366mg sodium; 256mg calcium

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RECIPE: Union Loafers Little Gem Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (5)

Yield: 6 large salads

9 shallots, divided

1 1/3 cups distilled white vinegar

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 1/3 cups water

2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1 small clove garlic

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk

¼ cup sour cream

2 pasteurized egg yolks

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1¼ cups canola oil

1 teaspoon olive oil

3 tablespoons panko bread crumbs

5 heads bibb or other lettuce, rinsed well and dried, then torn in bite-sized pieces

2 heart of romaine, rinsed well and dried, chopped in pieces about 1¾-inches squares

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped chervil

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped chives

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped dill

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley

Notes: The pickled shallots must be made a day ahead. The shallots will keep in the refrigerator in a covered container for a month.

• The lettuces should be spun dry or towel dried for best results. Union Loafers spins the lettuces dry, then pats with paper towels if needed.

• If fresh chervil is unavailable, substitute smaller, curly parsley leaves.

• Union Loafers makes toasted bread crumbs from scratch, but toasted panko works well for this salad.

1. The day before, peel and thinly slice 8 shallots crosswise, using a mandoline or a sharp knife. Separate into rings. Place sliced shallots in a colander, rinse with cold water, and let drain. Place in a tempered glass bowl or other nonreactive bowl and set aside.

2. Combine vinegar, sugar, water and 1 teaspoon kosher salt in a 2-quart pan. Heat to boiling over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves and the liquid is clear.

3. Pour hot liquid over the prepared shallots and let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

4. To make the dressing, peel and roughly chop the remaining shallot. Place it in a blender then add the garlic clove, buttermilk, sour cream, egg yolks, lemon juice and remaining teaspoon of salt. Blend on high for 20 to 30 seconds.

5. Reduce blender speed to medium and stream canola oil in until the dressing is emulsified.

6. The dressing should be used within 2 days if made with regular egg yolks; within 5 days if using pasteurized eggs.

7. To pan toast the panko, wipe a 6-inch skillet with olive oil and heat over medium high until the skillet is hot. Add panko and stir until the flakes brown.

8. To assemble the salads, toss the torn bibb lettuce with the chopped romaine in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle with 1 cup of buttermilk dressing and toss to coat evenly. Add toasted panko crumbs and 1/3 cup pickled shallots, drained, and toss to distribute.

9. Place half the lettuce mixture into each of 6 large salad bowls. Divide the chopped herbs in half. Sprinkle one half over the bottom lettuce layer.

10. Add remaining lettuce to the bowl and place remaining chopped herbs. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 660 calories; 52g fat; 5g saturated fat; 66mg cholesterol; 13g protein; 46g carbohydrate; 24g sugar; 17g fiber; 742mg sodium; 297mg calcium

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RECIPE: Cleveland-Heath Pozole

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (6)

Yield: About 10 cups

For pulled pork

1 pork butt, about 8 or 9 pounds

1 head garlic, halved crosswise

Bay leaves

Salt, preferably Diamond Crystal kosher salt

Boiling water

For the soup

1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes

About 6 small dried chiles de árbol (see note), stems removed, seeds left in

2 tablespoons rice bran oil or another neutral oil

2 cups diced onion

1 1/3 cups diced carrot

1 1/3 cups diced celery

Salt to taste

24 ounces canned hominy, drained

1 1/3 pork stock (plus more as needed to taste)

2 cups pulled pork

For spicy aioli

2 parts Hellmann’s Real Mayonnaise

1 part Huy Fong’s Sriracha

To serve, shredded purple and green cabbage and spicy aioli

To garnish, chopped cilantro and lime wedges

Notes: Chiles de árbol (pronounced ar-boll), are slender chiles up to about 3 inches long that ripen to a bright red color. Fresh ones are often used in colorful, prickly wreaths, dried ones for cooking. Cleveland-Heath chose this chile for its clean, neat heat and recommends using more/fewer chiles to adjust the spiciness to your own taste. I found them in the produce department at Schnucks, packaged by Frieda’s, the small ones are about an inch or so long.

1. Braise the pork and make pork stock. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place pork butt in a roasting pan with garlic and bay leaves alongside. Sprinkle generously with salt. Pour boiling water into pan, filling halfway. Cover with foil and braise in oven for 5 to 6 hours. Remove from oven and let cool. Reserve pan juices (the “pork stock”) and use two forks to “pull” the pork, separating strands. Reserve 2 cups pulled pork for the pozole, use the rest for sandwiches and more.

2. Make pozole. In a blender, combine tomato and chile de arbol until smooth and the chile breaks up and “disappears.”

3. Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottom pot such as a Dutch oven until shimmery, stir in onion, carrots, celery and salt and let begin to cook.

4. Stir in hominy, 1 1/3 cups pork stock and tomato-chile mixture. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to maintain a simmer and let simmer until vegetables are tender, about 30 to 40 minutes.

5. Stir in pulled pork and return to a simmer. Taste and if needed, adjust with additional pork stock and salt.

6. Make spicy aioli. While soup simmers, whisk mayonnaise and sriracha and transfer into a squeeze bottle.

7. To serve Cleveland-Heath-style, ladle 1-½ cups pozole into a bowl. Top with about a half cup of shredded cabbage and drizzle with about 1 tablespoon spicy aioli. Garnish with cilantro and a lime wedge.

Per serving (based on 6): 488 calories; 33g fat; 9g saturated fat; 85mg cholesterol; 24g protein; 24g carbohydrate; 8g sugar; 6g fiber; 531mg sodium; 95mg calcium

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

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RECIPE: El Toluco Taqueria & Grocery Guacamole

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (7)

Yield: About 4 cups

1 ½ cups chopped Roma tomato

1 cup chopped white onion

4 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons minced jalapeno

1 cup finely chopped cilantro

1 teaspoon table salt

2 ripe but not soft avocados, diced

Notes: El Toluco uses a hand-operated vegetable dicer that cuts piles of tomatoes and onions into perfectly uniform pieces about 3/8-inch square. At home, use a serrated tomato knife to dice the tomatoes and onions, aiming for quite large, similarly sized pieces.

1. In a large bowl, collect all the ingredients. With a spatula, stir the ingredients quite vigorously, pressing against the mixture so that the avocados soften and form a sort of sauce that binds the guacamole.

2. To serve El Toluco-style, serve guacamole with tortilla chips.

Per (2 tablespoon) serving: 18 calories; 1g fat; no saturated fat; no cholesterol; no protein; 2g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; 1g fiber; 74mg sodium; 4mg calcium

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

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RECIPE: Sister Cities Wintry Sangria with Cranberries and Rosemary

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (8)

Yield: 12 servings

¾ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 cups water

2 cups apple cider

1 ½ cups granulated sugar, divided

8 to 10 ounces of fresh cranberries

20 (4-inch) sprigs fresh rosemary, divided

1 standard 750-milliliter bottle crisp white wine

1 standard 750-milliliter bottle dry red wine

1 cup of a floral gin

4 dashes rhubarb bitters

3 ounces of brandy

1 cup club soda

2 lemons, cut in thin half-circle wedges

Notes: Rhubarb bitters are available at Friar Tuck’s liquor store in Crestwood and at Intoxicology in the Grove.

1. Combine lemon juice, water, apple cider, ¾ cup of sugar, cranberries and 2 to 3 sprigs of fresh rosemary in a nonreactive pot. Bring the mixture to a low boil, stirring occasionally.

2. Boil just until cranberries pop, about 10 minutes. Don’t overcook. Remove from stove and cool the mixture until warm.

3. Place remaining granulated sugar in a shallow bowl. Coat remaining sprigs of rosemary in the warm cranberry mixture. Roll sprigs in granulated sugar and remove to a parchment paper to cool.

4. Allow the remaining cranberry mixture to cool completely.

5. Place cooled cranberries in a large bowl. Add both red and white wine, gin, bitters, and brandy to the mix and stir to blend. Add the club soda just before serving and mix.

6. To serve, add ice halfway up a stemless wine glass or other wide-mouth co*cktail glass and ladle in the sangria. Be sure to get a little of the popped cranberries in each glass. Garnish with a sugared rosemary sprig and a slice of lemon.

Per serving: 297 calories; no fat; no cholesterol; no protein; 36g carbohydrate; 31g sugar; 1g fiber; 12mg sodium; 18mg calcium

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch

RECIPE: Seoul Taco Kimchi JJigae (Kimchi Stew)

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (9)

Yield: 2 large servings

½ pound of firm tofu, pressed then cut in ½-inch cubes

2 cups kimchi

½ to 1 cup kimchi juice

½ pound meaty pork belly cut in 1-inch cubes

3 cups water

Korean red pepper flakes to taste (optional)

1 tablespoon Gochujang, a Korean hot pepper paste (optional)

2 to 3 green onions

2 cups cooked white rice

Notes: This hearty stew is a staple in Korean households. It can be customized to taste, adding softened garlic and yellow onions, or by adding more heat with Korean pepper flakes or Gochujang.

• Korean pepper flakes have a different flavor than regular red chili flakes. Look for them and for the Gochujang hot pepper paste at international stores or Korean grocers.

• The kimchi should be fermented at least two weeks. For this test, we purchased both the meaty pork belly and the kimchi, which is made in house and fermented for 4 weeks, from Bolyard’s Meat and Provisions in Maplewood.

1. Two to 3 hours ahead of cooking time, press the water from the tofu block to remove excess water. Fold a clean dish towel (or layers of paper towels) into fourths and place on a plate. Open and drain the liquid from the package and carefully remove block of tofu to the prepared plate. Top with a second layer of absorbent towels. Place a second plate over the first and weight with a heavy book, a 32-ounce can or weights. Allow the tofu to sit, draining the plate every half hour, until the water is removed. The process should take from 1 to 3 hours.

2. Place a strainer over a medium sized bowl and drain the jar of kimchi, reserving ½-cup to 1 cup of the juice for the stew. When the kimchi is completely drained, measure out 2 cups and set aside.

3. Add the cut pork belly cubes to a 3- or 4-quart nonstick pan and toss over high heat to sear and cook down. When the pork belly is browned, add the drained kimchi and sauté together on high heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium high, then add the pressed tofu, kimchi juice and 3 cups of water and cook for 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Taste, then add Korean red pepper flakes and a tablespoon of gochujang for a extra heat, if using.

5. Stir the pot, then cover and cook over medium heat for 10 more minutes.

6. Slice the green onions on a wide diagonal for garnish. Serve with a side of white rice.

Per serving: 718 calories; 65g fat; 23g saturated fat; 82mg cholesterol; 23g protein; 11g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 3g fiber; 402mg sodium; 343mg calcium

RECIPE: The Vine Mediterranean Cafe and Market Lentil Soup

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (10)

Yield: 8 cups

8 cups water

2½ cups (16 ounces) red lentils

1/3 of a medium yellow onion, diced

Vegetable oil to cover (about 4 tablespoons)

1¾ Maggi-brand chicken-flavored bouillon cubes

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon turmeric

½ teaspoon curry powder

Scant ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For each serving for garnish, fresh cilantro, chopped parsley and olive oil

Notes: Red lentils are a mild, soft quick-cooking lentil; do not substitute other lentils. Look for 1-pound bags at Global Foods Market in Kirkwood, also a source for Maggi-brand bouillon, 2 cubes per tiny box. The Vine uses vegetarian chicken-flavored bouillon, but we found only chicken bouillon.

1. Bring 8 cups water to a boil on high heat in a large, heavy pot.

2. Rinse lentils 3 times under running water until the water runs clear. Soak lentils in clean water until water boils, then drain and add lentils to the boiling water. Bring back to a boil on high heat; stir often to prevent sticking and burning and use a slotted spoon to remove foam that collects on top. The lentils are cooked when they turn slightly soft and can be easily mashed. To gently mash the lentils, stir them with a wire whisk while still cooking; they should be creamy but still retain some texture.

3. Meanwhile, while lentils cook, in a small saucepan (not a skillet), cover onions with oil and bring to a boil. Boil hard until onions turn translucent. Turn down heat and stir in bouillon, salt, turmeric, curry and pepper; let simmer for 2 or 3 minutes.

4. Stir onion mixture into cooked lentils, cook for 5 more minutes, using the wire whisk to stir and mash slightly. Reduce the heat to maintain a slow simmer and let simmer until some of the liquid evaporates.

5. To serve Vine-style, pour 1 cup hot soup into squat, square white bowls. Garnish the top with 2 pretty sprigs of cilantro, a sprinkle of parsley and a swirl of olive oil.

Per serving: 270 calories; 8g fat; 1g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 16g protein; 35g carbohydrate; 2g sugar; 9g fiber; 514mg sodium; 34mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

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RECIPE: Annie Gunn's Caramelized Viking Village Sea Scallops with Apple-Pickled Jalapeño Relish

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (11)

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

For the apple chutney

1 pound Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced

1 medium onion, diced

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

1 cinnamon stick

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 cup cider vinegar

1 cup Vignoles or Traminette

1 cup water

1½ cups vanilla sugar

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ pound golden raisins

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Minced pickled jalapeños to taste

For the scallops:

3 tablespoons canola oil

16 10/20 count Viking Village or Georges Bank sea scallops

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. To make the chutney, place apples, onion, garlic, cinnamon, ginger, wine, water, sugar, red pepper and raisins in a 2-quart saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook 1 to 1½ hours, until candied. Allow to cool. Season to taste with salt, pepper and minced pickled jalapeños.

2. To make the scallops, bring canola oil to smoke point in a nonstick sauté pan. Brown scallops on each side, about 2 minutes a side. Place scallops on a tray and finish with butter, salt and pepper, then top with apple chutney.

Note: To make vanilla sugar, use 1 vanilla bean for every 2 cups sugar. Cut a slit down one side of the vanilla bean and, using the back of the knife, scrape the inside of the bean. Place the split and scraped vanilla bean, its scrapings and the sugar in a tightly sealed jar. For best flavor, wait at least 2 weeks for flavor to develop.

Pair with: Augusta Seyval Blanc 2011, Augusta, Mo., Gold Medal, 2012 Riverside International Wine Competition

Per serving: 360 calories; 7g fat; 1.5g saturated fat; 10mg cholesterol; 5g protein; 71g carbohydrate; 62g sugar; 2g fiber; 135mg sodium; 30mg calcium.

Recipe from chef Lou Rook III, Annie Gunn’s

RECIPE: Beast Craft BBQ Brussels Sprouts With Pork Belly

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (12)

Yield: 6 servings

1 gallon corn oil, for deep frying

1 ½ pounds fresh Brussels sprouts

½ pound uncured pork belly

1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Notes: If using a deep fryer, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for amount of oil. If using a smaller deep fryer, cook this recipe in two or three batches.

• If frying in a large pot on the stove, use a special candy/deep fry thermometer. Lower ingredients into pot in a long-handled fry basket that fits the pot or with a long-handled mesh skimmer or slotted spoon.

• Never leave either a deep fryer or a pot of hot oil on the stove unattended. Do not allow hot oil to come in contact with direct flame. Keep a fire extinguisher handy and never try to put out a grease fire with water. It vaporizes instantly into super-heated steam.

1. Begin heating oil in a deep fryer or in an 8- to 10-quart pot. The oil will heat to 275 degrees for cooking.

2. While the oil is coming up to temperature, rinse and dry Brussels sprouts. Trim the stem end. Slice sprouts in half lengthwise. Set aside.

3. Dice the pork belly into ½-inch pieces.

4. When the oil comes to temperature of 275 degrees, gently place the pork belly into the oil and fry until golden brown on all sides. Remove pieces to drain on paper towels and set aside.

5. If necessary, bring the oil temperature back to 275 degrees. Gently lower the cut Brussels sprouts into the oil. Take care as the sprouts may splatter for the first few seconds.

6. Fry until the outer leaves start to crisp and brown slightly and the center becomes tender.

7. Remove sprouts from oil and drain on paper towels.

8. In a large mixing bowl, combine the sprouts and pork belly pieces. Add salt, pepper and butter and toss to mix and serve.

Per serving: 376 calories; 36g fat; 11g saturated fat; 37mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 9g carbohydrate; 2g sugar; 4g fiber; 518mg sodium; 47mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

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RECIPE: Brasserie By Niche Pumpkin Soup

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (13)

Yield: 8 servings

For the soup

2 small Spookie pumpkins (see note)

Olive oil

Salt and pepper, to taste

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 cup diced yellow onion

½ cup diced leek

¼ cup diced celery

1 clove minced garlic

1 bouquet garni (fresh thyme, fresh or dried bayleaf and a peppercorn secured in cheesecloth)

¼ cup white wine

4 cups water

1 cup heavy cream

Brown sugar to taste

For pumpkin seed granola

5 tablespoons honey, warmed

4 tablespoons brown sugar

4 tablespoons butter, melted

2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats

2 cups raw pumpkin seeds

For salted grapes

12 red grapes

Salt

Per serving, for garnish

1 tablespoon salted grapes

2 tablespoons pumpkin seed granola

1 teaspoon pumpkin seed oil

Notes: Heirloom Spookie pumpkins have a sweet, deep-colored, fine-textured flesh and are especially revered for pie. Substitute two small sugar pumpkins (about 4-½ pounds combined) to yield more roasted pumpkin than you’ll need for soup, a good excuse to make pie. To soften the pumpkins a bit before cutting in half, microwave for 1 to 2 minutes.

• Brasserie’s Pumpkin Seed Granola is an unusually addictive concoction. As written, the granola recipe makes 5 cups, about 4 cups more than called for to garnish the soup. To forgo granola leftovers, divide the recipe by 4.

1. A day before serving, heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut pumpkins in half, scoop out and discard the seeds. Drizzle cut sides with olive oil, salt and pepper, arrange cut-side up on a baking sheet, place a thyme sprig atop each half. Roast until tender, about 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, discard thyme and scoop out flesh. Measure 4 cups roasted flesh for the soup, use remainder for another purpose.

2. Meanwhile, add a film of olive oil to a large, heavy pot and heat until shimmery. Stir in onion, leek, celery and garlic; sprinkle with a little salt and cook until translucent. Add wine to deglaze the pot (it should hiss), let cook for a minute or 2 to cook off most of the alcohol.

3. Stir in roasted pumpkin, water, bouquet garni and a little salt, then bring to a boil. Reduce heat to maintain a simmer and let cook until pumpkin is tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Stir in heavy cream and return almost to a boil. Taste, then add brown sugar and salt to taste.

4. Let soup cool. Remove bouquet garni. Puree soup in a high-powered blender, then for extra smoothness, press it through a fine-meshed strainer.

5. Cover and refrigerate 24 hours for flavors to meld.

6. Make granola. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a large bowl, combine honey, brown sugar and butter. Stir in oats and pumpkin seeds, really turning to coat every surface. Spread mixture evenly across baking sheet and bake until golden, about 15 to 20 minutes, turning halfway through. Let mixture cool without breaking apart. Transfer to a tightly covered container.

7. Make salted grapes. About an hour before serving soup, cut grapes lengthwise into thin slices and toss with a little salt.

8. To serve, heat soup almost to a boil, taste and adjust seasoning. To serve Brasserie-style, pour hot soup into white French crocks. Arrange salted grapes in a line across the center, top with pumpkin seed granola and drizzle with pumpkin seed oil.

Per serving: 313 calories; 17g fat; 9g saturated fat; 37mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 36g carbohydrate; 7g sugar; 1g fiber; 599mg sodium; 40mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Stellar Hog S’Mores Bread Pudding

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (14)

Yield: 12 servings

1 ½ to 1 ¾ pounds soft white, French or brioche-type bread, crusts trimmed and cut in 1-inch cubes

2 ¼ cups heavy cream

2 ¼ cups whole milk

2 whole eggs

6 egg yolks

1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

1 tablespoon softened butter to grease pan

1 ½ tablespoons raw sugar for dusting

For the graham cracker crumble

2 graham crackers

2 tablespoons brown sugar

A pinch of cinnamon

1 tablespoon butter, melted

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

Pinch of salt

12 ounces of marshmallow fluff, store-bought or make your own. (Find the Stellar Hog’s recipe at stltoday.com/food)

Notes: Start the recipe two nights before you plan to bake this dish by trimming the crusts and cubing the loaves of bread to allow them to get stale. Brioche, soft white and French bread all work, but the finished texture of the pudding varies.

• Make the custard 8 hours ahead of baking time and pour over bread. Allow to sit, refrigerated, for eight hours or overnight to absorb.

• The graham cracker crumble may be made a day or two ahead of time.

1. The day before you plan to bake the pudding, prepare the bread by trimming the crusts and cutting it into 1-inch cubes. The diced bread should fill a 9-inch-by-13-inch-by-2 ½-inch pan. Once you have measured the bread into the pan, spread it out on cookie sheets in a single layer and place in a cold oven to get stale.

2. Ten hours before you plan to bake the pudding, prepare the custard.

3. Separate yolks from whites for 6 eggs, leaving yolks in a large mixing bowl. Store and refrigerate the whites to use in the fluff part of this recipe. Crack two whole eggs into the yolks. Whisk eggs and yolks together. Set aside.

4. Pour the milk, cream and granulated sugar into a 3- or 4-quart sauce pan. Whisk to blend, then heat over medium heat until the sugar melts and the milk is scalding hot but not boiling. You should see small bubbles foaming at the edges of the pan and a light steam rising from the mixture. Don’t allow it to come to boil. Remove from heat.

5. Slowly pour a small amount of the cream and sugar into the whisked eggs in a very thin stream, whisking constantly, to temper the eggs. You don’t want them to curdle. Don’t rush this part of the prep. Whisk constantly while you slowly incorporate the remaining hot milk mixture into the eggs. Set aside.

6. Grease the side and bottom of a 9-inch-by-13-inch-by-2 ½-inch pan. Add a third of the bread cubes to the pan and spread in a single layer. Evenly distribute a third of the chocolate chips across the layer. Repeat with two more layers. Pour prepared custard evenly over the bread layers. Cover and refrigerate 8 hours.

7. The following day, preheat oven to 350 degrees, 325 degrees for glass pans. Lightly dust the top of the bread pudding with raw sugar. Bake uncovered for 45 to 55 minutes until the top is lightly golden brown, the edges pull slightly away from the pan and the custard has a slight uniform jiggle.

8. To make the graham cracker topping: place the graham crackers in a plastic bag and crush to crumble.

9. Grease the bottom of an 8-inch baking pan.

10. In a small bowl, mix together crumbled graham crackers, brown sugar and cinnamon. Combine melted butter and vanilla, then stir in. Spread evenly in prepared pan. Sprinkle white sugar and salt over the top. Bake in 350 degree oven until golden brown, approximately 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool.

11. To assemble the finished pudding: Cut the pan into 12 equal pieces. Remove with a spatula, top with marshmallow fluff and graham cracker crumble. If desired, place pudding with fluff under the broiler or use a torch to “toast” the marshmallow top.

Per serving: 530 calories; 29g fat; 17g saturated fat; 181mg cholesterol; 10g protein; 61g carbohydrate; 29g sugar; 2g fiber; 291mg sodium; 121mg calcium

RECIPE: Byrd & Barrel Cauliflower Appetizer

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (15)

Yield: 1 generous appetizer serving

For peppadew aioli

5 ounces peppadew peppers

1 teaspoon roasted garlic

4 teaspoons water

½ teaspoon white vinegar

2/3 cup homemade mayonnaise (see notes)

For the par-roasted cauliflower

1 head cauliflower, core removed

Olive oil

Kosher salt to taste

Generous pepper

Appetizer, per serving

2 tablespoons 90:10 olive:canola oil

2 cups par-roasted cauliflower

2 tablespoons garlic butter (see notes)

1 tablespoon Grana Padano (see notes)

1 tablespoon toasted cashews

2 ½ tablespoons jalapeño salsa (see notes)

2 tablespoons peppadew aioli

Fresh cilantro, for garnish

Notes: Peppadew is the trademarked name of a sweet piquante pepper from South Africa. Look for the bright-red peppers in upscale groceries, either in jars and at the salad bar.

• Not into homemade mayonnaise? Byrd & Barrel recommends Duke’s mayonnaise.

• For garlic butter, Byrd & Barrel blends softened butter with a little olive oil, minced garlic and salt.

• Grana Padano is a hard slow-ripened Italian cheese. Byrd & Barrel calls it a “step up” from Parmigiano Reggiano.

• Byrd & Barrel makes giant batches of salsa by fermenting jalapeños for two months before processing. It’s available for sale by the pint for $20.

1. Make peppadew aioli. If needed, drain peppadews. Puree peppadews, vinegar, water and garlic, leaving some chunk and texture. Fold into mayonnaise, then cover and refrigerate. Makes about 1 cup.

2. Par-roast cauliflower. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut core and large stems from cauliflower, use for another purpose. Cut into small florets and toss with oil, salt and pepper. Arrange florets on a baking sheet lined with parchment in a single layer, separating as much as possible. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes until “al dente,” golden brown but with some crunch. Can be made ahead of time and refrigerated for finishing later.

3. Make appetizer. Heat a heavy sauté pan until “blazing hot.” Add oil and swirl around until very hot. Add cauliflower and sauté, tossing frequently, until beginning to darken but not burn. Stir in garlic butter until melted and hot.

4. To serve Byrd & Barrel-style, spread cauliflower from corner to corner on a metal tray. Sprinkle with Grana Padano and cashews. Place dabs of jalapeño salsa around the edges. Drizzle with peppadew aioli and garnish with a few sprigs of cilantro.

Per serving: 767 calories; 77g fat; 22g saturated fat; 73mg cholesterol; 9g protein; 19g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 6g fiber; 1,099mg sodium; 167mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Stellar Hog Quinoa and Chickpea Veggie Burger

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (16)

Yield: 6 large patties

1 tablespoon chia seeds, ground

¾ cup water tepid water

4 to 6 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 medium red onion, cut in an 1/8-inch dice, about 1 1/3 to 1 ½ cups total

1 cremini mushroom, cut in an 1/8-inch dice

1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon salt, divided

1 ½ cup cooked chickpeas, roughly but evenly chopped

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon real maple syrup (don’t use a maple syrup substitute)

1 ½ cups cooked quinoa, cooled

½ cup rolled oats (not instant)

2 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed, then minced fine

½ teaspoon allspice

½ teaspoon cinnamon

Notes: Grinding the chia seeds is important to the success of the recipe. The ground seeds quickly develop into a mucilaginous gel that helps hold the burgers together. Use a spice grinder or coffee grinder to do this.

• Use a blender to grind the rolled oats into a coarse meal.

• Don’t use a food processor to chop the onion and mushroom. It releases too much water. The 1/8-inch dice cut is called brunoise, and there are instructions and tutorials online that show good technique for this.

• The chickpeas shouldn’t be ground smooth but should have some texture and be similar in size. For the test, we used a small food processor and made two passes, separating out the larger pieces after the first run and processing them a second time to maintain similar size.

• The patties may need more ground oats if the mix is too watery after the 10-minute rest after the first knead.

1. Grind the chia seeds fine in a spice or coffee grinder, then place in a small bowl and add ¾ cup water. Set aside.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in an 8-inch skillet over medium heat until it just shimmers. Add finely diced onions and mushrooms. Stir in ½ teaspoon salt and saute the mixture over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent. Set aside to cool.

3. Roughly chop chickpeas with soy sauce, vinegar and maple syrup to an even texture.

4. Grind the rolled oats in a blender to the consistency of coarse meal.

5. In a medium mixing bowl, combine quinoa, chia seeds, sauteed onions and mushrooms, chopped chickpeas, ground rolled oats, minced garlic, allspice and cinnamon.

6. Knead mixture together with 1 tablespoon salt. Let mixture rest for 10 minutes.

7. Knead again to blend. If the patties are too loose, add more ground oats.

8. Form into 6 large patties, using about ¾ cup of the mixture.

9. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to an 8-inch warmed skillet or saute pan and heat over medium high heat until the oil shimmers and skitters when flicked with a drop of water. Add patties and cook for about 5 to 6 minutes per side for a good hard sear.

10. Serve on a toasted bun. Top with any burger toppings.

Per serving: 367 calories; 18g fat; 3g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 10g protein; 43g carbohydrate; 7g sugar; 8g fiber; 967mg sodium; 83mg calcium

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RECIPE: Cleveland-Heath Broccolini

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (17)

Yield: 4 servings

¼ cup Viet Huong “Three Crabs” brand fish sauce

¼ cup fresh unstrained lime juice

¼ cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons fresh minced garlic

2 tablespoons fresh minced ginger

1 cup farro (see note)

Oil for deep-frying

4 bunches broccolini, about 12 ounces

¼ cup fresh jalapeno, seeded, cut in rings

¼ cup minced cilantro

¼ cup fresh mint leaves

1. Make nuoc cham dressing. Combine fish sauce, lime juice, brown sugar, garlic and ginger, stir until sugar dissolves. Makes about 1 cup. Keeps for 4 or more weeks in the refrigerator. Return to room temperature before serving.

2. Make crispy farro. Cook farro like rice in boiling salted water until tender, about 12 minutes. Strain and let dry completely in a single layer on paper towels. In a deep fryer, heat oil to 350 degrees. Fry farro until crispy. Cool and drain on paper towels.

3. Make salad. A bunch at a time, drop broccolini into fryer and fry until stems are soft and tips are crispy. (Alternatively, roast broccolini on a baking sheet at 350 degrees on a baking sheet for about 25 minutes.) Toss warm broccolini, jalapeño rings, cilantro and mint in a large bowl. Drizzle dressing along sides of the bowl, toss together.

4. To serve Cleveland-Heath-style, arrange broccolini in a shallow white bowl, top with crispy farro.

Notes: Farro is a nutty-flavored Italian wheat. Fish sauce is a salty, fishy liquid used in Asian cuisines. Both may be found at Global Foods Market in Kirkwood.

Per serving: 405 calories; 25g fat; 4g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 7g protein; 41g carbohydrate; 16g sugar; 5g fiber; 1450mg sodium; 75mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Byrd & Barrel's Muffaletta Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (18)

Yield: 4 large dinner-sized salads

For the dressing:

¼ cup mayonnaise

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

¼ cup lemon juice

1 teaspoon anchovy paste

1/½ teaspoons grated onion

1/3 cup finely grated parmesan cheese

1 ½ teaspoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon minced garlic

½ teaspoon fresh oregano

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and cracked fresh black pepper to taste

For the salad:

1 ½ cups finely cut giardiniera (carrots, celery, cauliflower)

1 ½ cups sliced green olives

¾ pound cotto salami (julienne cut in 2- to 3-inch pieces)

¾ pound sweet ham (cut in a 3/8-inch dice)

½ pound parmesan cheese (thinly shaved in large pieces)

4 cups cups roughly chopped iceberg lettuce (pieces should be bite-sized and chunky)

2 cups roughly chopped romaine

Notes

• Chef Bob Brazell suggests making your own mayonnaise for this rich salad dressing. If not homemade, he likes Duke’s for this recipe.

• Byrd & Barrel makes its own giardiniera, but this ingredient is readily available jarred in the salad section of most groceries. If the giardiniera is chunky, chop it in the food processor to get a finely cut texture.

1. To make the dressing, combine mayo, vinegar, lemon juice, anchovy paste, onion, parmesan, sugar, garlic and oregano in a food processor or blender. Blend on medium speed for 90 seconds.

2. Turn the speed to high, then slowly drizzle in the olive oil while blending until it is incorporated thoroughly.

3. Taste. Add salt and pepper as needed.

4. Prepare the giardiniera, olives, ham, salami and parmesan ahead of time. Have them shaved, cut, sliced, measured and placed in separate piles.

5. Next, place the chopped iceberg and romaine lettuce in a large bowl and toss. Add half the salad dressing and toss to coat. Continue adding dressing until the pieces are completely coated with dressing. Divide the lettuce among 4 bowls.

6. Next, add each ingredient in parallel lines, in order, across the bowl to make a composed salad, beginning with the giardiniera, then the olives, then the salami, then the ham and ending with the shaved parmesan.

Per serving: 1,053 calories; 92g fat; 31g saturated fat; 136mg cholesterol; 44g protein; 12g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 3g fiber; 3,418mg sodium; 500mg calcium

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch

RECIPE: Cleveland-Heath Kale Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (19)

Yield: 4 servings

4 ounces shredded Parmigiano Reggiano

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Diamond Crystal brand kosher salt, to taste, divided use

8 cups curly kale, ribs removed, cut in chiffonade

2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper

1. Make parmesan chips. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place a silicone baking mat on a baking sheet. Spread a half-inch layer of Parmigiano on the mat and bake until firm and crispy, about 25 minutes. Cool and break into small pieces about a quarter-inch thick, reserve a few for garnish.

2. Make lemon dressing. In a bowl, whisk lemon juice, olive oil and salt to taste. The dressing will not emulsify so re-whisk just before using. Makes about a half cup; you may not use it all.

3. Make salad. Just before serving, in a large bowl, combine kale, garlic, red pepper, salt to taste, parmesan chips and a generous amount of lemon dressing. By hand, crush or “massage” the kale, bruising it heavily; once you think you’ve gone far enough, massage the kale a bit more. Taste and adjust garlic, red pepper, salt and dressing.

4. To serve Cleveland-Heath-style, mound kale in a shallow bowl, top with parmesan chips and serve immediately.

Per serving: 380 calories; 31g fat; 9g saturated fat; 30mg cholesterol; 17g protein; 14g carbohydrate; no sugar; 3g fiber; 390mg sodium; 435mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Cleveland-Heath's Brussels Sprouts

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (20)

Yield: 1 entrée- or table-size serving

12 ounces fresh Brussels sprouts

½ cup cooking oil

Salt, divided use

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot

2 tablespoons capers

4 tablespoons grated Parmesan

Notes: In Cleveland-Heath’s small kitchen, cooks use the fryer to briefly cook the Brussels sprouts, then finish in the oven. At home, Cleveland and Heath use the skillet method specified here.

1. Heat oven to 450 degrees.

2. Trim Brussels sprouts by trimming rough stem end, removing any gnarly outer leaves. Cut through the core into halves if sprouts are small, into quarters if large. You should have about 5 cups.

3. Heat an oven-safe skillet with a large surface area until hot. Cover with cooking oil about 1/8 to ¼ deep, heat just to the smoking point; it should be “super hot.Carefully arrange Brussels sprouts cut-sides down (they should sizzle), sprinkle with salt and let cook without turning until color turns dark brown, almost but not quite burning.

4. With a spoon, carefully turn sprouts until new cut-sides are face down; again cook until color turns dark brown. If there is “significant” oil in the skillet, pour it off and place skillet in oven until Brussels sprouts are tender, about 5 minutes.

5. In a small bowl, combine olive oil, lemon juice, shallot and capers. Turn in hot Brussels sprouts. Taste and be generous with salt.

6. To serve Cleveland-Heath style, transfer to a serving dish, top with Parmesan and serve hot.

Per serving (based on 1 serving): 1128 calories; 106g fat; 19g saturated fat; 20mg cholesterol; 23g protein; 32g carbohydrate; 8g sugar; 13g fiber; 1054mg sodium; 541mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

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RECIPE: Farmhaus Ozark Forest Roasted Mushroom Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (21)

Yield: 4 entrée salads or 8 side salads

8 ounces slab bacon or bacon ends

¾ cup finely diced yellow onion, leeks or shallots (in any combination)

½ cup cider vinegar

1 teaspoon sorghum (see notes)

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1¼ cup roasted garlic oil, divided (see notes)

Table salt to taste

8 ounces Ozark Forest fresh oyster mushrooms

8 ounces Ozark Forest fresh shiitake mushrooms

Kosher salt and black pepper to taste

10 to 12 ounces flavorful greens washed, spun dry, woody stems removed (see notes)

¾ cup toasted Missouri pecans

3 ounces fresh Baetje Farms goat cheese

Notes: Sorghum is not interchangeable with molasses. It is available in better groceries and specialty stores. Roasted Garlic oil is available at better supermarkets. Use a variety of hearty greens for this salad. Farmhaus uses a mixture of seasonal greens including tatsoi, red mizuna, baby collards, field spinach, mustard and arugula.

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

2. Cut the bacon into chunky cubes, about ¼-inch square. Gently brown bacon pieces in a large 8- or 9-inch skillet until evenly brown and crispy, not burnt. Drain pieces and reserve fat; set aside bacon pieces.

3. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of bacon fat to the skillet; add diced onion, leek and shallot mixture to the pan. Cook the onions over low to medium-low heat to caramelize them.

4. Add cooked bacon pieces to the pan with onions. Pour in the cider vinegar. Deglaze the pan by gently dislodging the brown cooked-on bits from the bottom of the pan with a spatula. Reduce the mixture to about three-fourths of its original volume. Remove from heat and transfer to a medium-sized mixing bowl.

5. Whisk in the sorghum, the reserved bacon fat, ¾ cup of roasted garlic oil and the lemon juice. Taste. If needed, add salt to taste. Set to the side in a warm place.

6. Prepare the mushrooms for roasting. Tear out the stems from the shiitakes and the fibrous core of the oyster mushrooms and reserve both for another use.

7. Mushroom caps 2 inches in diameter should be left whole. Loosely tear the larger ones in pieces, about 2 inches.

8. Toss the mushrooms in a medium mixing bowl with ½ cup roasted garlic oil to lightly coat them. Season with kosher salt and cracked black pepper.

9. Place prepared mushrooms, leaving space between, on a rimmed cookie sheet and roast in the oven at 425 for 8 to 12 minutes. Rotate them twice during cook time and remove smaller pieces as needed when they are slightly crispy and done. When all are roasted, remove from the hot cookie sheet to a warmed dish. If there is oil left on the pan, scrape it off and you will have garlic-mushroom oil for another dish.

10. Toss the greens with the reserved bacon dressing to coat. Divide into 4 or 8 salad bowls.

11. Top first with the roasted mushrooms, followed by toasted pecans. Add crumbled fresh goat cheese and serve.

Per serving: 1,015 calories; 98g fat; 19g saturated fat; 62mg cholesterol; 28g protein; 17g carbohydrate; 6g sugar; 7g fiber; 1258mg sodium; 167mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch

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RECIPE: Gioia's Deli Tortellini Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (22)

Yield: 8 servings

1¼ pounds tri-colored cheese tortellini

1 cup chopped green onion, white and green parts

1 (28-ounce) can Dei Fratelli Chopped Italian Tomatoes, Herbs & Olive Oil

1 ¼ cups sliced black olives, drained

1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon low-sodium garlic pepper

1 ¼ cups Pietro’s Sweet & Tangy Original Recipe (salad dressing)

Notes: Find the tortellini, tomatoes, olives, Parmesan and garlic pepper at DiGregorio’s Market on the Hill and Pietro’s salad dressing at the restaurant on Watson or in area supermarkets.

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Remove from heat, drop in tortellini and let rest for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water. Let drain well again.

2. Rinse green onion under running water, let drain to dry.

3. With your hands, gently combine cooked tortellini, green onion, tomatoes, olives, Parmesan, garlic pepper and salad dressing.

4. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Before serving, stir again. If needed, add a little more salad dressing.

Per serving: 425 calories; 20g fat; 7g saturated fat; 45mg cholesterol;17g protein; 46g carbohydrate; 10g sugar; 3g fiber; 1250mg sodium; 280mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Grace Meat + Three's Country Ham Deviled Eggs

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (23)

Yield: 15 servings (30 halves)

For the Everything Seasoning:

1 tablespoon black sesame seeds

1 tablespoon white sesame seeds

1 tablespoon poppy seeds

1 tablespoon dried minced garlic

1 tablespon dried minced onion

1 tablespoon sea salt

For the eggs and deviled ham

15 large hard boiled eggs

2 tablespoons Creole-style whole grain mustard

1 teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon Crystal hot sauce, divided

1 cup mayonnaise, divided

½ cup diced country-style ham

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Salt to taste

2 to 3 sprigs fresh parsley, leaves only

8 to 10 chive stems, cut in 1 ½ inch pieces

5 to 6 large leaves basil, stemmed and torn in quarters

Notes: Grace Meat + Three makes their own Creole mustard and cures the country ham, but both are easy to find at local grocers. The country ham brand used for the test was by Burger Smokehouse, found in the cold case at a local grocer. Zatarain’s makes a Creole mustard, but there are other brands as well at specialty stores and at some grocers in the condiments aisle.

• Grace chefs use Duke’s Mayonnaise for this recipe.

• The sesame seeds may be toasted to bring out their flavor and add texture.

• Grace uses a small dab of the egg yolk mixture to seat each egg to the plate.

• The egg yolks may be mixed by hand with a fork and a whisk, but the deviled ham must be made in a food processor.

1. Mix all ingredients for the Everything Seasoning in small bowl. Set aside.

2. Peel, then cut each egg in half lengthwise. Gently remove egg yolks and place in the bowl of a food processor. Lay out the egg halves on a baking sheet and set aside. Pulse yolks until pureed.

3. Add mustard and 1 teaspoon of Crystal hot sauce to eggs and pulse until smooth.

4. Add ½ cup mayonnaise and pulse until incorporated. Don’t overwork this step or the mayonnaise may separate. Remove egg mixture to a bowl, cover and refrigerate.

5. Clean and thoroughly dry the bowl and blade of the food processor. Attach bowl and blade to machine, then add diced ham, remaining tablespoon of Crystal hot sauce and pinch of cayenne pepper. Pulse until the ham turns into a paste.

6. Add remaining ½ cup mayonnaise and pulse a few times. Scrape down sides and pulse again just until the mayonnaise incorporates. Take care not to overwork this step or the mayonnaise may break. Remove to a small mixing bowl.

7. To assemble the eggs, pipe in or fill each egg hollow with a dollop of the yolk mixture and place on a tray or plate.

8. Pipe or top each filled egg with a small amount of deviled ham. Store leftover deviled ham in a tightly closed container and refrigerate. Use within a week.

9. Lightly sprinkle the eggs and the plate with Everything Seasoning. Store leftover seasoning in a tightly covered jar. Top with prepared chives, parsley and basil on both eggs and plate. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 190 calories; 17g fat; 3g saturated fat; 193mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 1g carbohydrate; no sugar; no fiber; 636mg sodium; 43mg calcium

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RECIPE: Katie's Pizza Cannellini Bean Dip

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (24)

Yield: Makes 2 generous cups

1 large clove garlic

2 (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon salt

½ tablespoon pepper

Kalamata olives and fresh basil, for serving

Freshly baked pizza points or pitas, for serving

1. In a food processor, mince garlic until fine.

2. Add beans, oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and process until smooth and creamy but still retaining some texture.

3. Cover and refrigerate to allow flavors to meld for a minimum of 4 hours.

4. To serve Katie’s Pizza-style, fill 2 small ramekins with bean dip, top each ramekin with 3 kalamata olives and a basil leaf. Place ramekins on each end of a rectangular platter, mounding pizza points between.

Per (¼ cup) serving (calculated without pizza crust): 239 calories; 16g fat; 2g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 7g protein; 18g carbohydrate; 2g sugar; 5g fiber; 1,179mg sodium; 53mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

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RECIPE: Nudo House Shrimp Spring Rolls

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (25)

Yield: 10 spring rolls

For the dipping sauce

3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 cup hoisin sauce

3 tablespoons sambal oelek

¼ cup water

¾ cup crushed peanuts (for topping the sauce in individual bowls)

For the spring rolls

1 (12- or 14-ounc)e package of rice stick noodles

20 shrimp, size 21/25, steamed, peeled, deveined, and cut in half lengthwise

1 head iceberg lettuce, cored and very thinly sliced

1 bunch cilantro, cleaned well, stems trimmed

1 cup fresh bean sprouts

10 rice paper spring roll wrapper sheets, at least 10-inches wide

Notes:

• The dipping sauce may be made ahead of time and refrigerated.

• Sambal oelek and hoisin sauce are available in better groceries, in specialty stores, at Global Foods in Kirkwood and at Jay International on South Grand.

• For the shrimp, the numbers 21/25, called the count, refer to the number of individual shrimp in one pound. Grocery stores with a fresh fish counter will often steam the shrimp for you at no charge.

• Rice stick noodles are available in better groceries, in specialty stores, online, at Global Foods in Kirkwood and at Jay International on South Grand.

• Rice paper spring roll wrappers are round and sold in a variety of diameters from 8.5 inches to 12 inches. For this recipe the size needs to be 10 inches or larger.

1. To make the dipping sauce: In a small bowl, mix all ingredients together well. Refrigerate if making ahead. Just before serving, top with crushed peanuts if desired.

2. For the spring rolls, fill a 5- or 6-quart pan with 3- to 4-quarts cold water. Bring to a hard boil on the stove. Add the rice noodles, sliding them into the pan down the sides. Allow the water to just come to boil, turn off the heat and wait 12 minutes for the noodles to cool. Drain, then rinse the noodles under cold water to remove the starch. Place cooked noodles in a colander and set aside until ready to roll.

3. Prepare to make the spring rolls. Lay out the cut shrimp, shredded lettuce, cilantro and bean sprouts on a clean surface.

4. Fill a large bowl with hot water. You will be working one wrapper at a time. Remove one wrapper and dip it in the hot water for one second to soften. Place the dipped wrapper on a clean, flat work surface. It will absorb the hot water and become soft, pliant and translucent.

5. Working from the edge closest to you, place 4 shrimp halves across the center, rounded side to the wrapper, leaving 4 inches open on the side edges. For the additional ingredients, you will be leaving 3 inches open on each side to complete the roll.

6. Add a handful of rice noodles across the wrapper next, leaving a 1½-inch space to pull the wrapper over the ingredients. Follow with shredded lettuce, sprigs of cilantro and bean sprouts, keeping in mind you are making 10 rolls.

7. Pull the edge closest to you over the filling to start the roll. Tuck the side edges in, as you would to roll a wrap or a burrito, then tightly roll the wrapper around the filling to the opposite edge. Set aside.

8. Repeat the process until all 10 wrappers are filled.

9. Serve with dipping sauce. Use individual small bowls of sauce for each person.

Per serving: 235 calories; 10g fat; 1g saturated fat; 33mg cholesterol; 5g protein; 48g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 2g fiber; 411mg sodium; 32mg calcium

Each serving size is 1 spring roll and 1 teaspoon of dipping sauce.

RECIPE: Southwest Diner Biscuits and Gravy

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (26)

Yield: 10 servings

For the biscuits

4 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 stick (½-cup) plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (divided)

1 extra-large egg

¾ cup buttermilk

For the gravy

2 tablespoons rendered bacon fat

1 pound freshly ground pork (available at the meat counter)

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream

1 ½ to 2 ¼ cups whole milk (see notes)

1 ¼ teaspoons chopped fresh sage leaves

2 ½ teaspoons minced garlic

¾ teaspoon fresh chopped rosemary

1 ¼ teaspoons ground black pepper

1 ¼ teaspoons salt

1 ¼ teaspoons packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Notes: If the gravy thickens too quickly, stir in a little more milk. You want to end up with about 5 cups of gravy.

• If you don’t have fresh herbs, dry herbs will do, but the taste will not be quite the same.

1. Position rack in the center of the oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large mixing bowl. Whisk or stir to blend.

3. Cut the stick of butter into cubes. Quarter the stick of butter and cut into small ½ cubes.

4. Mix to blend butter cubes throughout the flour mixture.

5. Scoop mix into the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the butter resembles small pebbles. Do this in 3 or 4 batches. Return to mixing bowl.

6. Combine buttermilk with egg in a small bowl and stir or whisk to blend.

7. Make a deep well in the center of the dry ingredients. Add the buttermilk and egg mixture to the well.

8. Mix the ingredients with gloved hands or turn dry ingredients into the wet with a rubber spatula or a big spoon. At Southwest Diner, they mix by gloved hands to a uniform consistency so as not to overwork the dough. The dough will be sticky to the touch.

9. Line an 18-by-12-inch rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper. Drop biscuit dough using a No. 2 ice cream scoop, which is almost ¼-cup, onto parchment-lined sheet. Place 3 biscuits across and 3 biscuits down for spacing.

10. Bake one sheet at a time for 10 minutes. Turn the sheet and continue baking an additional 5 minutes. Check for doneness. The tops should be a light golden brown and dry to the touch. If the biscuits need additional bake time, check at 2-minute intervals and remove promptly when lightly golden brown.

11. Remove the baking sheet to a cooling rack. Allow the biscuits to sit on the sheet until they are cool enough to handle. Remove to a platter and reserve.

12. To make the gravy, add bacon fat to a 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet, sauté pan or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat until melted. Add ground pork and cook fully, taking care to break up the meat into crumbles as it cooks.

13. Sprinkle flour over the meat mixture and stir until it is fully absorbed. The consistency will be paste-like. Cook the flour into the meat completely to avoid a raw flour taste in the gravy.

14. Add the heavy cream, 1 ½ cups of milk and sage, garlic, rosemary, black pepper, salt, brown sugar and crushed red pepper to the cooked pork. Stir often after you add the cream and milk as the mixture could scorch easily.

15. Stir constantly over medium until the gravy reaches the desired thickness. If the gravy becomes too thick, stir in the reserved milk.

16. To assemble: split the biscuits in half with a serrated knife. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a small pot and brush on a griddle or skillet as needed to toast the biscuits. Place cut side down and toast until lightly browned. Repeat and grill remaining biscuits.

17. Place 2 biscuits, 4 halves, on each plate. Use ½ cup of gravy for each plate, ladling gravy over each half. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 538 calories; 30g fat; 16g saturated fat; 111mg cholesterol; 17g protein; 48g carbohydrate; 4g sugar; 2g fiber; 795mg sodium; 112mg calcium.

RECIPE: Olio Roasted Beet Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (27)

Yield: 4 large salads

For Roasted Beets

3 pounds beets, preferably about same size

3 sprigs rosemary

3 sprigs thyme

6 large fresh garlic cloves, smashed with side of a knife

¼ cup olive oil

½ cup sherry vinegar

½ cup water

Salt and black pepper, to taste

For Chermoula

½ cup fresh mint leaves

½ cup fresh parsley leaves

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves

½ cup piquillo pepper (see notes), patted dry and diced small

Zest of a large lemon

¼ cup preserved lemon, chopped

¼ cup sottaceti (see notes)

For Roasted Beet Salad, per salad

¼ cup ricotta

2 cups roasted beet cubes

2 tablespoons Chermoula

1 tablespoon lemon vinaigrette

Salt to taste

Chive oil

Herbs (dill, mint, parsley)

Notes: Sottaceti (also sotto’ceto, sott’aceti, sotto l’aceto and other variations) are vegetables pickled Italian style. The direct translation means “under vinegar,” and Olio’s relish-like version combines celery, fennel and onion (and often, other extra vegetables) blitzed in a food processor and pickled overnight in white wine vinegar.

• Piquillo peppers are sweet (not hot) Spanish chilis and when roasted, have a sweet, spicy flavor. They’re easily found online in jars or cans, but roasted red peppers are an acceptable substitute.

• You can purchase preserved lemons or make your own. See our recipe here, tinyurl.com/m2vflda.

1. Roast Beets. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Remove tops from beets leaving 1 inch of stem, gently wash beets, leave tails intact. Arrange in a baking pan with sides. Add rosemary, thyme, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, water, salt and pepper. Cut a piece of parchment the same size as the baking pan, place over beets, then cover baking pan with foil. Roast until tender, about 60 minutes for smaller beets, about 90 minutes for larger beets. (Beets are notorious for unpredictable cooking times so allow lots of time and check for doneness every 30 minutes. They’re done when a thin knife inserts easily into the centers.) Let cool slightly, gently peel off skins; use a paper towel or gloves to avoid hand stains. Cool completely, then cut into bite-size cubes, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

2. Make Chermoula. Hand chop mint, parsley and cilantro. In a bowl, stir herbs with pepper, lemon zest, preserved lemon and sottaceti. Makes about 1½ cups; leftovers are easy to use with fish, pasta, sandwiches, grilled vegetables, etc.

3. To serve Roasted Beets Olio-style, spread ricotta in a ring in a shallow rounded salad dish. Toss Roasted Beets with Chermoula, lemon vinaigrette and salt in a small bowl and mound in center of ricotta. Drizzle with chive oil and sprinkle with the herbs.

Per serving: 541 calories; 39g fat; 9g saturated fat; 31mg cholesterol; 13g protein; 39g carbohydrate; 25g sugar; 10g fiber; 478mg sodium; 215mg calcium

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Olio's "Famous" Egg Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (28)

Yield: Makes 2-1/4 cups, about servings

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 pounds yellow onions, peeled and slivered

7 large eggs

2 tablespoons homemade mayonnaise plus more to taste

Salt

White pepper

Chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Lemon zest, for garnish

1. In a heavy pot, heat oil until shimmery on low heat. Add onions and cook slowly until soft but not yet beginning to turn color, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. Cover and chill until firm.

2. Cover eggs with cold, salted water in a large uncovered pot. Bring to a rapid boil. Turn off heat and cover the pot. Wait 10 minutes, then drain. When cool enough to handle, peel the eggs. Cover and chill.

3. Weigh equal amounts of egg and onion (there will likely be extra onion for another purpose). Put eggs and onions through the small holes of a meat grinder into a bowl.

4. Stir in mayonnaise, just enough to bind the mixture. Season generously with salt and white pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning. Chill until ready to serve.

5. To serve Olio-style, mound about 3 tablespoons egg salad on three thick slices of good bread, garnish with chives and lemon zest.

Per ½ cup serving: 285 calories; 19g fat; 3.5g saturated fat; 290mg cholesterol; 12g protein; 18g carbohydrate; 8g sugar; 3g fiber; 150mg sodium; 85mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Pastaria's Orange Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (29)

Yield: 1 serving

2 navel oranges

12 very thin julienne slices red onion

12 picholine olives

1 teaspoon good olive oil

Pinch fleur de sel

24 fresh tarragon leaves

Note: Fleur de sel is a French hand-harvested sea salt used for finishing a dish. Look for it in high-end grocery stores and specialty food stores.

1. Slice ends off oranges, then slice off skins on the sides, removing all the white pith. Working over the serving plate to collect the juices, “supreme” the orange by inserting a knife along the membranes, separating the sections to remove the orange flesh. Arrange sections loosely around the plate, top with onion.

2. Remove pits from olives, tear in half and arrange atop orange slices.

3. Sprinkle salad with olive oil, fleur de sel and tarragon.

Per serving: 256 calories; 5g fat; 1g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 4g protein; 45g carbohydrate; 28g sugar; 8g fiber; 7mg sodium; 280mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Pastaria's Radish Bruschetta

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (30)

Yield: 4 servings

2½ pounds garden-fresh radishes (see notes)

2 tablespoons good olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

8 thick slices rustic bread (see notes)

1 raw garlic clove

Notes: Pastaria recommends radishes from the farmers market, any variety that’s really fresh. For the best explanation of an oblique cut, Petres recommends “The French Laundry Cookbook” by Thomas Keller. We found this explanation: bit.ly/1JXQm8b

• For bread, Pastaria uses a crusty loaf of pugliese from Companion.

1. Trim radishes and oblique cut them (or slice on diagonal).

2. In a large heavy skillet, heat olive oil until shimmery on medium high heat. Stir in radishes, turning to coat with oil. As soon as radishes begin to take on color, reduce the heat a bit and begin seasoning with salt and pepper. Cook until almost soft. Deglaze pan with lemon juice, letting juices turn ruby-red. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Stir in mint.

3. While radishes cook, grill bread slices on a wood-fired or other grill. When golden, rub surfaces with garlic clove; it should smell like garlic bread.

4. To serve Pastaria-style, mound warm radishes atop warm bread slices, stacking the edge of 1 slice on the edge of another.

Per serving: 180 calories; 8g fat; 1.5g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 2g protein; 24g carbohydrate; 6g sugar; 5g fiber; 250mg sodium; 100mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Peacemaker Clam Chowder

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (31)

Yield: 12 servings

For the light roux

1 ¼ cups (2 ½ sticks) butter

2 cups all-purpose flour

For sachet

1 tablespoon dried thyme leaves

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

½ tablespoon fennel seed

2 long strips lemon peel (see note)

1 bay leaf

For the chowder

½ tablespoon butter

½ cup Nueske’s slab bacon, cut into large dice

2/3 cup onion, diced

2/3 cup celery, diced

1 teaspoon minced garlic

4 tablespoons Worcestershire

2 tablespoons Tabasco

5 cups clam juice

4 cups housemade chicken stock

½ cup white wine

½ cup lemonade (not too sweet, though)

Sachet

Light Roux, ¾ to start, more as needed

4 cups ¾-inch diced red potatoes

¼ cup heavy cream

¼ cup half-and-half

Salt

1 tablespoon butter

12 ounces fresh clam strips

For serving, fresh chive and oyster crackers

Notes: Use a vegetable peeler to slice two peels of lemon skin, the yellow part only, about the length of the lemon.

• At Peacemaker, for freshness, an ounce of clams is sautéed-to-order for each serving; the same could be done at home as well.

1. Make a light roux. In a medium-size heavy saucepan, melt 1 ¼ cups butter on medium heat. Whisk in flour and let cook, whisking often, until flour turns light gold. Spread thin on a sheet tray and let cool. (The roux may be made in advance. You may not use all of the roux; use what’s left to make a roux-thickened soup or sauce.)

2. Make sachet. Wrap thyme, peppercorns, fennel, lemon peel and bay leaf in two layers of cheesecloth, sealing the sachet with kitchen twine.

3. Make chowder. Melt ½ tablespoon butter in a large, heavy saucepan on medium heat. Stir in bacon and gently cook, just until beginning to soften without crisping. Stir in onion and celery and gently cook, just until beginning to soften. Stir in garlic and let cook for just a minute. Stir in Worcestershire and Tabasco, let liquid cook down by about half. Starting slowly, stir in clam juice, chicken stock, white wine and lemonade. Stir in sachet. Bring to a gentle boil and let boil until liquid reduces by about 1/8.

4. Remove sachet and increase heat to bring liquid to a heavy boil. A large spoonful at a time, stir in about three-fourths of the light roux; stir until liquid returns to a heavy boil before adding the next spoonful. Once three-fourths of light roux is added, the mixture should be the consistency of a thin gravy; if not, add some or all of the remaining light roux, remembering that the mixture will continue to thicken as it cooks. Reduce heat to maintain a slow simmer, let mixture simmer for 30 to 40 minutes.

5. Stir in potatoes and let simmer until potatoes are fully cooked. Stir in cream and half-and-half, bring just to a boil. Add salt to taste.

6. Cook clams. Just before serving, heat a skillet on medium heat and melt 1 tablespoon butter until sizzling. Drop in clam strips and cook just until done. Chop into bite-size pieces and stir into chowder. (See note.)

7. To serve Peacemaker-style, pour a cup of chowder into military-style tin soup cups. Garnish with fresh chive, serve with oyster crackers on the side.

Per serving: 292 calories; 17g fat; 9g saturated fat; 11mg cholesterol; 18g protein; 26g carbohydrate; 4g sugar; 2g fiber; 1,204mg sodium; 85mg calcium

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Salt + Smoke White Cheddar Cracker Mac

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (32)

Yield: About 7 cups

1 pound medium pasta shells

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups cream

8 ounces grated white cheddar

Salt and pepper to taste (see notes)

7 ounces Ritz crackers, crushed

Notes: If making ahead of time, make extra sauce to stir in just before baking. Salt + Smoke is selective about all of its ingredients, including the salt and pepper. The kitchen uses Diamond Crystal kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper in a 3:1 blend.

1. Heat oven to 300 degrees.

2. Cook pasta in salted water according to package directions, just before al dente. Drain.

3. In a large saucepan, melt butter. Stir in flour and cook for 1 to 2 minutes to cook off the floury taste. A quarter cup at a time at first, slowly stir in cream, incorporating each addition before adding more. Bring almost to a boil; do not allow to boil.

4. Remove saucepan from heat. Stir in cheddar, salt and pepper until cheese melts. Stir in hot pasta.

5. Transfer to an oven-safe baking dish, top with crackers.

6. Bake just until hot, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Per serving: 802 calories; 48g fat; 28g saturated fat; 137mg cholesterol; 20g protein; 70g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 4g fiber; 486mg sodium; 332mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Southwest Diner's Buttermilk Cornmeal Pancakes

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (33)

Yield: 7 large pancakes

1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/3 cups yellow cornmeal

6½ tablespoons granulated sugar

¾ teaspoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon baking soda

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

3 large eggs

1 2/3 cups buttermilk

4 tablespoons (generous) melted unsalted butter

1. In a bowl, use a wire whisk to stir together flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

2. In a second large bowl, whisk eggs until whites and yolks are completely combined, then whisk in buttermilk.

3. Gently whisk in half the flour mixture, just until combined. Whisk in remaining flour mixture, just until combined (a few floury bits are fine). Slowly pour butter in a steady stream into the bowl with one hand while gently whisking it in with the other.

4. Heat a lightly greased griddle until hot, about 350 degrees. Scoop a half cup pancake batter onto griddle, cook just until golden on bottom and air bubbles “pop” on top. Flip and cook until golden.

5. To serve Southwest Diner style, serve pancakes hot in a short stack (2 pancakes) or tall stack (3 pancakes) topped with whipped salted butter and pancake syrup or maple syrup.

Per pancake: 355 calories; 10g fat; 5g saturated fat; 99mg cholesterol; 9g protein; 57g carbohydrate; 15g sugar; 2g fiber; no sodium; 488mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: The Crossing Roasted Beet Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (34)

Yield: 8 servings

For beets:

4 large beets

Kosher salt

For beet puree:

Roasted beet scraps

Water

Kosher salt

For sherry vinaigrette:

1 shallot, finely diced

1/8 cup sherry vinegar

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Pinch kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

For goat cheese spread:

1 cup goat cheese, room temperature

½ cup mascarpone, room temperature

2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted with salt and pepper

½ bunch fresh parsley, roughly chopped

1 shallot, finely diced

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

To serve, per salad:

About 4 tablespoons roasted beets

1 teaspoon very finely diced shallot

1 teaspoon very finely diced parsley leaves

1 tablespoon pine nuts, toasted with salt & pepper

Pinch salt

Sherry vinaigrette

Goat cheese spread, warmed to room temperature

Pea sprouts

Basil pesto (store-bought or your own recipe)

Beet puree

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Gently scrub and trim beets, leaving one inch of stem and “tail” intact. Wrap each beet in foil with a pinch of salt. Bake 1 to 2 hours or until hot in center and fork tender. Remove foil and when beet is cool enough to handle, use a paper towel to rub skins off. Slice beets ¼-inch thick, stack and square the sides (reserving the scraps), cut in ¼ inch dice.

2. Make puree: Puree the scraps in a blender with water and a little salt to form a squeezable puree; place in a squeeze bottle.

3. Make sherry vinaigrette: Combine shallot, vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper in a bottle or bowl with a tight-fitting lid. Shake vigorously. Makes about 1 cup.

4. Make goat cheese spread: Using a mixer with a paddle attachment, mix goat cheese, mascarpone, parsley, shallot and enough sherry vinegar to reach a creamy consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Scoop into a pastry bag or a freezer bag with a corner snipped. Refrigerate but return to room temperature before assembling salads. Makes about 2 cups.

5. Assemble. In a bowl, combined diced beets, shallot, parsley, pine nuts and salt. Stir in just enough sherry vinaigrette to wet.

6. Just before serving, fill bottom of a 2 3/4 inch by 2 3/4 inch ring mold with about 2 tablespoons diced beet. Pipe in a layer of goat cheese spread. Top with another layer of diced beet. Remove the ring mold (it helps to simultaneously gently press on the beets with an empty hot sauce bottle while lifting the ring mold up around the bottle).

7. To serve The Crossing-style, unmold onto a white rectangular serving plate. Toss pea sprouts with sherry vinaigrette and salt, arrange atop beet mixture. Garnish the plate with flourishes of basil pesto and beet puree.

Per serving: 500 calories; 50g fat; 14g saturated fat; 55mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 8g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 2g fiber; 160mg sodium; 70mg calcium.

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

To print this recipe, click here and then click the printer icon.

RECIPE: The Clover and the Bee Three Cheese Cauliflower Soup

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (35)

Yield: 8 large servings

2 quarts (8 cups) rough-cut cauliflower florets (see notes)

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup finely diced onion

1 quart (4 cups) heavy cream

1 cup whole milk

2 cups shredded white American cheese

2 cups shredded fontina cheese

1 tablespoon cornstarch

4 tablespoons cold water

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

Salt to taste

1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

4 tablespoons chopped chives

Notes: For the test, we purchased two 2-pound untrimmed heads of cauliflower. To get 8 cups florets roughly cut we used about 1 ½ heads. For this soup, use the florets only and reserve the stems for another use.

• Buy white American cheese in blocks from the deli counter. To get 2 cups shredded for both the American and the fontina cheeses, you will need approximately ½ pound of each.

• To avoid making a stringy cheese soup, don’t bring the milk and cream to a full boil; rather, heat to a slow boil where a bubble breaks the surface every so often, not constantly. Heating the milk mix too high can cause the protein bonds in cheeses to break, release moisture and create a stringy soup.

• Add the cheeses to the milk mix gradually, in 4 or 5 additions, stirring slowly, to prevent stringiness and clumping.

1. If using a standard oven, preheat 400 degrees. For convection ovens, preheat to 300 degrees and use low fan to roast the cauliflower.

2. Trim the outer green leaves of the cauliflower, and then slice the stem end even with the head. Place florets facing up on a cutting board and cut it in half, then into quarters. Trim the woody core from each quarter and then trim the florets. Cut large florets in halves or quarters so all florets will roast evenly. Reserve the woody core and trims from florets for another use. Place florets in a large colander and rinse them under cold running water.

3. Roast the cauliflower.

4. For standard ovens: Place trimmed florets in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, and then toss to coat evenly. Roast for 10 minutes, then turn the florets and rotate the baking sheet and return to oven for another 10 minutes. The florets should be lightly caramelized.

5. For convection ovens: Place florets on a large, rimless baking sheet. You want the air to circulate freely. Drizzle with olive oil, and then toss to coat evenly. Roast on low fan for 20 minutes or until the florets are light brown.

6. Remove from oven and place florets in a food processor, in batches, with a bit of the vegetable stock. Don’t puree to smoothness. Leave some chunkiness.

7. Melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium-low heat in a 3- or 4-quart heavy bottomed pan. Add finely diced onion and cook until translucent, stirring as needed.

8. Add milk and heavy cream to the onions and cook over medium-low heat until the mixture comes to a soft, low boil. Add the American cheese first, in 4 or 5 handfuls. Gently stir or whisk each addition in before adding the next.

9. Repeat step with the fontina cheese.

10. Stir in the reserved cauliflower and heat through.

11. If the soup is too thin, make a slurry by whisking the cornstarch increments into the cold water. Slowly stir it in, in increments, until desired consistency is reached.

12. Add the smoked paprika. If needed, add salt to taste.

13. Ladle into bowls and top with Parmigiano-Reggiano and chopped chives.

Per serving: 525 calories; 44g fat; 25g saturated fat; 127mg cholesterol; 20g protein; 17g carbohydrate; 8g sugar; 3g fiber; 845mg sodium; 412mg calcium

RECIPE: Edibles & Essentials Roasted Beet Salad

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (36)

Yield: 4 salads

8 medium beets — red, golden or white

2 medium red onions, peeled and cut in julienne strips

¾ cup of 5 percent red wine vinegar

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

¼ cup grade-A maple syrup

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 ½ teaspoons smooth Dijon mustard

1 ½ teaspoons honey

½ teaspoon sea salt

¾ cup canola oil

4-ounce log of goat cheese

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon milk

½ cup all-purpose flour

¾ cup Italian seasoned bread crumbs

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups arugula

1 cup beet microgreens

¼ cup pepitas, toasted and salted

Notes: Roast the beets first before you begin the preparation. If you want the beets to retain color, roast each color on a separate baking dish, otherwise the red color bleeds into the light colors. Edibles & Essentials uses an oven-roasted method that steams the beets as well to keep them juicy. We give their directions in the instructions, however, you may use your favorite method of roasting for this step if you choose.

• There are three separate preparations — pickled red onions, maple vinaigrette and goat cheese fritters — that are made before this salad is composed on serving plates.

• Pickled red onions can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks. Store any leftover vinaigrette in the refrigerator as well.

• Pepitas are small plump pumpkin seeds with no shells. They occur in certain pumpkins. They are available toasted and salted in bulk departments of better grocers or you can toast your own on a flat baking sheet placed in a 350-degree oven for 3 to 4 minutes, removed from the oven and salted when hot.

1. To roast the beets, preheat the oven to 350, 325 for glass pans. Cut off the beet greens leaving 2 to 3 inches attached to the beets. Do not trim the root and don’t peel. Wash the beets under cold running water and arrange them on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle beets generously with water, then add water to a depth of 1/8-inch.

2. Cover the baking sheet tightly with commercial plastic wrap, tucking in all the edges under the rim of the sheet. Next, cover the entire baking sheet tightly with aluminum foil, wrapping the edges completely and tightly over the foil. If desired, you can eliminate the plastic wrap and tightly cover with aluminum foil only.

3. Place beets in the oven and cook for 30 minutes to an hour. The cook time for beets ranges widely depending on size and variety. They are done when a toothpick slides into the center easily. Remove from oven and let cool when done. When cool, cut the beets into 1-inch pieces.

4. To make the pickled onions, place the julienned onions in a deep mixing heat-proof bowl.

5. Combine the red wine vinegar and granulated sugar in a 2- or 3-quart nonreactive pot. Bring to a full boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the vinegar liquid over the julienned onions, stir and set aside.

6. To make the maple vinaigrette, combine the maple syrup, sherry vinegar, Dijon mustard, honey and sea salt in a deep mixing bowl and whisk to blend. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, stream the canola oil into the maple syrup mixture to emulsify the dressing.

7. To make the goat cheese fritters, divide the goat cheese log into 4 pieces. Break the egg into a shallow bowl and mix the milk into it with a fork, using a whisking motion. Place the flour and the seasoned bread crumbs in two shallow bowls.

8. Shape the goat cheese pieces into patties in a fritter shape, coat them first in the flour, then roll in the egg wash and lastly roll in the bread crumbs.

9. Heat olive oil in a nonstick skillet over medium until a drop of water flicked onto the surface skitters. Pan fry on all sides and remove to paper towels to drain.

10. To plate the salads, divide the beets in quarters and arrange on 4 salad plates in a ring. Add ½ cup arugula to the center of each ring, then top each with equal amounts of the microgreens. Sprinkle with toasted pepitas. Top with 8 to 10 straws of pickled red onion and goat cheese fritter. Dress with maple vinaigrette and serve.

Per serving: 700 calories; 45g fat; 10g saturated fat; 69mg cholesterol; 17g protein; 56g carbohydrate; 30g sugar; 8g fiber; 726mg sodium; 230mg calcium

RECIPE: Edibles and Essential’s Sweet Potato Curry with Polenta Cakes

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (37)

Yield: 8 generous servings

For the curry

2 medium yellow onions, peeled and roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled

1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut in quarters

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided)

2 tablespoons garam masala

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon red chili flakes

2 tablespoon tomato paste

5 cups vegetable broth

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

3 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut in a medium dice ( 3/8-inch cubed)

2 large carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/8-inch rounds

2 (14-ounce) cans diced tomatoes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

For the polenta cakes

Cooking spray

4 cups water

1 cup quick-cooking polenta (sometimes called instant polenta)

2 teaspoons sea salt

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 cup plain full-fat yogurt

For the curry:

1. Place the onion, garlic, ginger, oil, garam masala, cumin, cardamom and chili in the bowl of a food processor and puree until a paste forms.

2. Gently heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil in the bottom of a 4- or 5-quart pot. Transfer the onion and spice mix to the pot and cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 3 to 5 minutes until the mixture darkens and becomes aromatic.

3. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 to 2 more minutes, continuing to stir.

4. Add 3 cups of vegetable broth and all the brown sugar. Stir all the way down to the bottom of the pot. Mix well.

5. Add the diced potatoes, sliced carrots, tomatoes, salt and pepper. If needed, add more vegetable broth to cover. Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, adding hot broth as needed, until the vegetables are tender.

6. Leftover curry may be cooled and stored in an air-tight container for 3 days.

For the polenta cakes:

1. Lightly coat a 9-inch by 9-inch or an 11-inch by 7-inch baking dish with cooking spray and set aside.

2. Bring water and salt to a full roiling boil in a 4-quart saucepot. Slowly add the polenta, stirring constantly. Bring the mixture back to a medium boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer very gently simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. (Quick-cooking polenta cooks in 5 to 7 minutes.)

3. Remove the pot from the heat and fold in the lemon zest, lemon juice and yogurt. Stir well.

4. Carefully pour the polenta in the prepared dish and spread it evenly in the pan. Smooth the surface with a spatula.

5. Chill the polenta for 2 to 3 hours until the polenta is completely cool and firm.

6. Once its cooled, cut the polenta into 8 equal pieces.

7. The polenta cakes can be warmed in an oven or griddled in a sauté pan, using the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil to heat.

8. Serve warmed curry over warmed polenta cake.

Per serving: 381 calories; 12g fat; 2g saturated fat; 4mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 62g carbohydrate; 15g sugar; 9g fiber; 1521mg sodium; 142mg calcium

RECIPE: Mac’s Local Eats Naked Pig Sandwich

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (38)

Yield: 8 large sandwiches

For the pork stock:

5 pounds meaty pork bones, preferably hocks, trotters and neck bones

1 large white onion, not sweet, unpeeled and cut into quarters

1 large carrot, unpeeled, washed and quartered

1 celery stalk, leaves removed, washed and quartered

Water to cover

Salt and pepper to taste

For the horseradish aioli

1 egg yolk

½ teaspoon mustard powder or 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 cup vegetable or canola oil

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish – or more, to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

For the pork loin:

3 pound pork loin

4 cloves garlic, smashed flat

3 sprigs of fresh thyme, about 4-inches long

For roasted pork only: 1/3 cup vegetable oi

For each sandwich:

½ cup pork stock

1 7-inch piece French baguette, sliced in half lenghtwise

1 tablespoon soft unsalted butter

1 ¾ ounce slice Provel cheese

5 ounces thinly sliced pork

¼ cup very thinly sliced sweet white onions (sliced on mandoline if possible)

2 tablespoons horseradish aioli

Notes: The pork stock should be made at least one day ahead of time. Finished pork stock will keep in the refrigerator for 4 days. Extra pork stock may be frozen in smaller units for future use for up to 1 year.

• The horseradish aioli should also be made a day ahead of time. You may substitute commercial mayonnaise mixed with horseradish if desired.

• Pasteurized eggs are available at most grocery stores. They are safe to eat uncooked if that is a concern.

• Choose a high-quality pork loin for this sandwich. Mac’s uses local pork, humanely raised, from Meadowlark Farms.

• Mac’s uses the sous vide method to cook its pork tenderloin. Food is sealed in bags and cooked in a circulating water bath at low temperatures for long cooking times. Small sous vide units are available for home use at prices from $100 to $500 each. The pork loin may be roasted or grilled for this recipe.

• For this sandwich, the pork slices are served cold.

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place pork bones in a single layer in roasting pans. Cook bones until charred and browned, which should take about an hour, checking once or twice to gauge progress. Remove from oven and set aside.

2. Place cooked bones in a large heavy-bottomed stockpot.

3. Deglaze the roasting pan on the stovetop, adding a cup or two of water and heat. Using a spatula, dislodge any browned bits remaining in the pan. Transfer to the stockpot.

4. Add cold water to the stockpot to cover the ingredients and cook, loosely covered, over medium high heat for 4 to 6 hours. Skim off any foam that rises to the top. Add boiling water to the stockpot as needed to keep ingredients covered.

5. Add onions, carrots and celery and cook for 1 additional hour.

6. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Strain the stock into large bowls, using a colander lined with cheesecloth or other method to trap solids. Discard solids.

7. Taste cooled stock. Add salt and pepper as needed.

8. Store finished stock in the refrigerator overnight. Remove fats that solidify on the surface and discard.

9. Make the aioli: In a small mixing bowl, whisk egg yolk, mustard and lemon juice together until well-combined.

10. Begin whisking vigorously and very slowly drizzle in oil until all the oil is incorporated and fully emulsified.

11. Lightly whisk in garlic and horseradish. Taste. Add salt and pepper if needed. Store in the refrigerator in a tightly covered, airtight container for up to 1 week.

12. To cook using a sous vide circulator: Place pork loin, garlic and thyme in a plastic bag. Vacuum seal the bag. Place in circulator and cook for 3 hours in a 135-degree water bath. Remove loin from bag, rinse under cool water and pat dry and let cool. Slice meat into very thin slices.

13. To roast pork loin: About 24 hours ahead of roasting, place pork loan, garlic and rosemary and vegetable oil in a plastic storage bag with a seal. Squeeze out excess air, seal bag and place in the refrigerator to marinate overnight. To cook, preheat oven to 375 degrees. Remove loin from bag and place on a rack in rimmed sheet pan. Roast until the internal temperature reaches 135 degrees. Slice meet into very thin slices.

14. When you are ready to make the sandwiches, in a small saucepan, heat the pork stock and keep warm.

15. Heat a 9-inch cast iron skillet on the stove over medium high heat.

16. Spread soft butter on both flat sides of the sliced baguette. Grill in the skillet until melted and browned.

17. Turn on the broiler in the oven for the next step.

18. Top buttered bread with Provel slices and thinly sliced onions. Place under broiler until the cheese melts.

19. Add thinly sliced pork. Top with a squiggle of horseradish aioli.

20. Slice in half crosswise, on the bias for easier dipping.

21. Place pork stock in a small bowl.

22. Dip pork sandwich in the pork stock as you would an au jus sandwich.

Sous-Vide Pork Loin, per serving: 933 calories; 47g fat; 19g saturated fat; 164mg cholesterol; 58g protein; 69g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 4g fiber; 1,177mg sodium; 403mg calcium

Roasted Pork Loin, per serving: 1,013 calories; 58g fat; 20g saturated fat; 164mg cholesterol; 58g protein; 69g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 4g fiber; 1,177mg sodium; 403mg calcium

Recipe adapted for home kitchens by the Post-Dispatch.

RECIPE: Sister Cities Shrimp and Grits

Onesto chef shares his grandma's recipe for fried cauliflower (39)

Yield: 4 servings

5 cups water

1 ½ teaspoons chicken base

3 teaspoons clam base, divided

1¼ cups grits

½ pound cotija cheese, shredded or finely crumbled

¼ pound provel cheese, shredded

½ teaspoon table salt

½ teaspoon black ground pepper

½ teaspoon granulated garlic

1 cup fresh roasted or grilled corn kernels cut off cob

¼ cup finely chopped red onion

¼ cup finely chopped seeded poblano pepper

1 tablespoon fresh finely chopped parsley leaves

1 tablespoon sliced green onions, white and green parts

Juice of ½ lime

2 sticks unsalted butter, softened, divided

¼ cup Worcestershire sauce

¼ cup Cajun-style barbecue sauce

¼ cup Sriracha-style hot sauce

½ cup white onion cut in ¼-inch dice

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh garlic

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup whole milk

1 to 2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil

24 peeled and deveined shrimp (2 pounds shelled)

1 teaspoon Creole rub

1 cup dry white wine

2 cups mixed leafy greens

Notes: This dish has 5 elements: cheesy grits, corn salsa, clam gravy, compound butter and shrimp.

• The corn salsa and compound butter may be made ahead of time and refrigerated.

• Use regular grits, not quick-cooking grits, for this recipe. The grits will be a little stiff as they will be made into cakes.

• Chicken and clam base are soup bases, available at better grocers. Better than Bouillon, Minor’s and Knorr are brand names for these bases.

• Cajun barbecue sauce brand names include Russell’s, Daigles and Bulls-eye. You can make your own by adding a Cajun spice rub like Zatarain’s to a tomato-based smoky sauce.

• Sister Cities is planning to sell their proprietary Creole rub. For this recipe we used Tony Chachere’s Creole seasoning. There is also a Creole seasoning from Zatarain’s.

1. To cook the grits, bring water to a boil, then stir in 1½ teaspoons each of clam and chicken bases. Slowly pour in the grits, stirring continuously until the grits are well-mixed. Return the pot to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer. Stir continuously until the grits are done, about 25 to 30 minutes. Pour grits into a large mixing bowl, then stir in both cheeses until thoroughly absorbed. Set aside.

2. Combine the salt, pepper and granulated garlic in a small dish. This seasoning is called SPG.

3. To make the corn salsa, combine corn, red onion, poblano pepper, parsley and sliced green onions. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of SPG. Squeeze lime juice over all, then stir to blend, cover and set aside.

4. Next, make the compound butter for cooking the shrimp. Mix 1 stick of softened butter with Worcestershire sauce, barbecue sauce and hot sauce until evenly incorporated. Set aside.

5. Prepare the clam gravy/sauce for the dish next. Melt the remaining stick of butter in an 8- or 9-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is just melted, add diced white onion, sage and chopped garlic. Stir together, reduce heat to medium, and cook for 3 minutes. Sprinkle flour over the cooked mixture and stir it in. Continually stir for 5 minutes to make a light roux. Continue stirring and slowly pour in the milk. Add the remaining clam base to the gravy and stir in. Bring mixture to a low boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a low simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat, cover pan and keep warm.

6. To make the grits cakes, use a large nonstick griddle pan or two nonstick skillets. Wipe the surface of the pans with vegetable or canola oil on a paper towel. You will be cooking 16 grits cakes. Heat the pan first. Scoop out the grits mixture using either a No. 20 disher/scoop or scant ¼ cup measure.

7. Place scoops flat side down on the cooking surface. Do not press them down. When the grits cakes get a good sear on the bottom, flip them gently, then form them to make ½-inch thick patties. When both sides are seared, remove to a plate and keep covered in a warm place until done.

8. Next, cook the shrimp. Add the compound butter to a cold large 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet or large sauté pan. Top with shrimp. Sprinkle shrimp with remaining 1 teaspoon SPG and Creole seasoning.

9. Have dry white wine and ½ cup clam gravy ready at the side of the stove. Cook shrimp over medium heat until the shrimp are about three-quarters done, approximately 3 to 5 minutes. Turn up heat to high. As soon as the butter begins to sizzle, add white wine and stir to deglaze the pan. Reduce heat to a simmer. Swirl in 4 ounces of the clam gravy and simmer on low until the shrimp are done.

10. To plate the dish, you will use 4 grits cakes and 6 shrimp for each serving. Place a small mound of salad greens (optional) on each plate. Top greens with corn salsa. Place cakes on plate, top with shrimp and pour remaining clam gravy over the shrimp and grits cakes, not over the greens and salsa.

Per serving: 1,273 calories; 80g fat; 46g saturated fat; 477mg cholesterol; 57g protein; 80g carbohydrate; 17g sugar; 9g fiber; 3,284mg sodium; 867mg calcium

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Onesto Pizza & Trattoria

5401 Finkman Street

314-802-8883; onestopizza.com

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